Tudor Rose Purse

Instructions Page 2




Page 1:
Materials
Page 2:
The Flower
Page 3:
The Interior
Page 4:
Putting It Together
Page 5:
Finishing




Assembling the Flower



Step 1: Cut out 20 large petals (piece #2) and 10 batting for large petals. Trim the batting as shown to eliminate bulk in the center. If using iron-on batting, follow the directions that accompany the product, or do as follows: flip so the batting is towards the ironing board, and press using a pressing cloth on the highest setting recommended for the fabric. Repeat for the small petals (piece #3)


Step 2: Using a half-inch seam allowance, stitch together the two petals and a layer of batting. Keep the bottom open so you can turn it inside out. Remember - right sides together!


Step 3: Another view of stitching the petals together. The next step is to turn the petal right side out. I don't clip the curves here - the extra fabric in the ends gives it a little more body for a nice finish. Press the seams once they're turned.

View of all petals assembled and turned.

Remember, 10 large petals (piece #2) and 10 small petals (piece #3) per purse.



Step 4: Topstitch the petals using a contrast thread. Start at the open end, stitching through all layers. Backstitch when starting the stitching, and rotate the petal slightly to give it a natural "wave".


Observe the "wave". Do three or four lines of topstitching per petal. (See step 6 for a picture)



Step 5: To finish the topstitching, pull up slightly on one thread to bring both to the same side. Knot and then thread through a needle. Slide the needle into the middle right at the last stitch and pull and clip the ends to they're secured in the batting middle.


Step 6: Optional - edgestitching around the edge of each petal. I've shown both edge stitched and not. I prefer the one without edgestitching, actually.


Step 7: Start to assemble the petals. Mark one inch up from the center on each petal (more visible in the picture below). Line up two petals with the edges together but not overlapping and zig-zag stitch from the center up to the marked line, and stitch backwards the whole length. Repeat with five petals to close the circle. Repeat for the other five.


This picture shows a completed petal circle.


Step 8: To make the large sepals, (piece #4) put two together (these are without batting) and stitch using a 3/8-inch seam allowance. You need 10 large leaves in all.


Step 9: Clip the tip very close to the stitching. It may be useful to clip the curves as well, although there are a lot of petals so decided whether to do this or not based on how your fabric choice handles (i.e. if it looks fine without it don't bother).

Step 10: Turn sepals inside out and press.


Step 11: Time for decorative stitching with the other contrast thread! Play around with any of the decorative or stretch stitches on your machine. If nothing else, two rows of straight topstitching would look nice. You can see my choices :) You'll also notice I didn't to the decorative stitching the whole way around, because the interior parts will be covered by the bag portion.


Step 12: Lay the sepals on the backside of the petal circle (the backside is just the side you like the least, because they're both the same at this point. Line it up so they look nice and pin them in place.


Step 13: Flip the whole thing over and straight stitch through all layers along the previous zig-zag stitching. This will secure the sepals to the petals. Be sure to backstitch and the end points.

Step 14: You have your work cut out for you! You finished two sets of large petals and sepals, now repeat the same instructions for two sets of small petals and sepals. The final count it 5 petals, 5 leaves per set.
(piece #5). A note about pattern piece #5: this piece is for two small petals end to end. Cut out 10 pieces, and then cut these in half cross-wise (NOT lengthwise). This reduces pinning and cutting time.

Onto the next page!
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