IMPORTANT NOTICE! This is a text file. It may not print out properly in a web browser. If you are having problems printing this document, save it to your hard drive (select "save" in the "file" menu) And open it with any text editor, such as notepad, wordpad, or word. Copyright 2004 SavvySeams. Some rights reserved. Visit http://www.savvyseams.com/ or email info@savvyseams.com for more information. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 559 Nathan Abbott Way, Stanford, California 94305, USA. Flower Purse This pattern is rated difficult. While none not requiring any particularly hard techniques, it is quite long and might be confusing for someone without sewing experience. As mentioned in the gallery, this purse is based on the Tudor Rose design. Even when made out of a casual material such as dusty denim, it still has a fairly formal appearance. The interior is divided into a zipper section and a section with magnetic snap. The straps have clips with can be set as an across-the-shoulder configuration or a tote bag configuration. The instructions are divided into 5 pages: Click here for printable text-only instructions Page 1: Materials Page 2: The Flower Page 3: The Interior Page 4: Putting It Together Page 5: Finishing Materials Required: * 2.25 yards outside fabric (45"). If using 60" fabric, 1.75 yards. Fabric should be a woven, medium weight. If a lightweight fabric is desired, interface all pieces with lightweight fusible interfacing. I always buy an extra 0.25 yard just to make sure I have enough. * 0.75 yard thin batting. I used fusible polyester batting in my purse at it worked quite well. * 0.5 yards interior material. Should be lightweight woven. * One 9" zipper * One magnetic purse snap. If you can't find a magnetic purse snap, velcro or a regular snap could be a substitute. See the resources page for suggested sources. * Two metal (or plastic) clasps. The hardware store is a good place to find these. Plastic ones can be found at camping stores. Again, see the resources page. * Two colors thread, one for the petals/body color, and one for the leaves. * 1.0 yard seam binding or wide double-fold bias tape. * Optional: One bead, split ring, and head pin for a zipper pull. Assembling the Flower Step 1: Cut out 20 large petals (piece #2) and 10 batting for large petals. Trim the batting as shown to eliminate bulk in the center. If using iron-on batting, follow the directions that accompany the product, or do as follows: flip so the batting is towards the ironing board, and press using a pressing cloth on the highest setting recommended for the fabric. Repeat for the small petals (piece #3) Step 2: Using a half-inch seam allowance, stitch together the two petals and a layer of batting. Keep the bottom open so you can turn it inside out. Remember - right sides together! Step 3: Another view of stitching the petals together. The next step is to turn the petal right side out. I don't clip the curves here - the extra fabric in the ends gives it a little more body for a nice finish. Press the seams once they're turned. View of all petals assembled and turned. Remember, 10 large petals (piece #2) and 10 small petals (piece #3) per purse. Step 4: Topstitch the petals using a contrast thread. Start at the open end, stitching through all layers. Backstitch when starting the stitching, and rotate the petal slightly to give it a natural "wave". Observe the "wave". Do three or four lines of topstitching per petal. (See step 6 for a picture) Step 5: To finish the topstitching, pull up slightly on one thread to bring both to the same side. Knot and then thread through a needle. Slide the needle into the middle right at the last stitch and pull and clip the ends to they're secured in the batting middle. Step 6: Optional - edgestitching around the edge of each petal. I've shown both edge stitched and not. I prefer the one without edgestitching, actually. Step 7: Start to assemble the petals. Mark one inch up from the center on each petal (more visible in the picture below). Line up two petals with the edges together but not overlapping and zig-zag stitch from the center up to the marked line, and stitch backwards the whole length. Repeat with five petals to close the circle. Repeat for the other five. This picture shows a completed petal circle. Step 8: To make the large sepals, (piece #4) put two together (these are without batting) and stitch using a 3/8-inch seam allowance. You need 10 large leaves in all. Step 9: Clip the tip very close to the stitching. It may be useful to clip the curves as well, although there are a lot of petals so decided whether to do this or not based on how your fabric choice handles (i.e. if it looks fine without it don't bother). Step 10: Turn sepals inside out and press. Step 11: Time for decorative stitching with the other contrast thread! Play around with any of the decorative or stretch stitches on your machine. If nothing else, two rows of straight topstitching would look nice. You can see my choices :) You'll also notice I didn't to the decorative stitching the whole way around, because the interior parts will be covered by the bag portion. Step 12: Lay the sepals on the backside of the petal circle (the backside is just the side you like the least, because they're both the same at this point. Line it up so they look nice and pin them in place. Step 13: Flip the whole thing over and straight stitch through all layers along the previous zig-zag stitching. This will secure the sepals to the petals. Be sure to backstitch and the end points. Step 14: You have your work cut out for you! You finished two sets of large petals and sepals, now repeat the same instructions for two sets of small petals and sepals. The final count it 5 petals, 5 leaves per set. (piece #5). A note about pattern piece #5: this piece is for two small petals end to end. Cut out 10 pieces, and then cut these is 1/2 cross-wise (NOT lengthwise). This reduces pinning and cutting time. Onto the next page! Constructing the Interior Step 15: Lay one lining piece (# 1 ) on top of one fabric piece. A 1/2 inch up the neck, fold the fabric over the lining and press. Cut the lining off at this point and topstitch across the top. Then fold the fabric edge under and press, and topstitch again (see the next image for a close-up). A close up of the fold over. Step 16: Using the instructions that come with your magnetic snap attach the thicker piece to reinforced area, make sure it is at least 1/2 inch from the top edge. I repeat, make absolutely sure there is 1/2" of free fabric above the snap. (See step 27 to find out why.) Important Note: If you want to make the purse with just a snap compartment and avoid the zipper installation, repeat steps 15 and 16 for the other side and skip to the next page. Step 17: Get the other fabric interior piece (#1). Again, fold over 1/2 inch into the "neck" and topstitch. Then mark 1/2 inch and 1 inch from the top, and cut off the excess of the fold 1 inch from the top. Step 18: Pin or baste the zipper along the newly cut edge. (remember right sides together!) Step 19: Using the zipper foot, sew in the zipper on one side very close to the teeth. Close the zipper and finger press it out (see the picture below). This is what it looks like after step 19. Step 20: Cut off excess lining 1/2 inch into the neck (i.e. leave 1/2 inch of the neck) Step 21: Tuck the lining into the fold that now has the zipper, aligning all the edges. Step 22: Topstitch along the zipperthrough all layers. Be sure to press all the raw edges into the fold before you topstitch. In other words, the zipper should the flat and the seam allowance of the fabric pressed up. Step 23: Now repeat the same steps for the other side of the zipper. Step 23 con't: This time, instead of using a whole piece #1 out of fabric, only cut the top third out of fabric. (In picture this is the square piece - your piece should be the neck and the top part of the "bulb"). Attach the zipper like in steps 17-21, but don't topstitch just yet. Step 24: Tuck the remaining lining piece into the fold. Step 25: Fold back down and topstitch along the zipper and through all layers and you did in step 22, but you know, you're doing the other side now :-) The view after topstitching in the other zipper side. Step 26: Now fold up the raw edge of the short fabric piece. Press and topstitch, but *only* to the piece of lining directly behind it. At this point, there is one layer of fabric, and three layers of lining, and then the facing you're working on. Only topstitch the facing to the layer of lining directly behind it. Step 27: Install the other half of the magnetic snap, again only through the fabric facing and the layer of lining directly behind it. Make sure it lines up with the other half. The magnetic snap from the back side. Now you've finished the interior. Don't get to excited and baste all your pockets together yet, you need them all hanging free to sew onto the flower. Onto the next page Putting It All Together Step 28: Cut out straps. I didn't give you a strap pattern, but it's really easy to make. Cut six 2" wide strips of fabric, along the grainline. Make each strip 20 inches long. To make each strap (you need two), place two strips, right sides together, and sew down each long side with a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Leave the ends open. Save the remaining two strips for step 31 and beyond. Step 29: Turn the straps right side out. My suggested way to do this is to put a safety pin through one side. Make sure to put it about 1/2 inch from the edge so it won't pull out. Now dive the pin into the casing and work the seam allowances into the casing until it begins to go easily. Use the pin to bunch up fabric, but then do the actual pulling grasping onto the fabric end in the casing (otherwise the pin will pull out). I think the look of the straps is improved with way - however the alternate way is to sew one side, and then proceed as for the small straps as in steps 31-33. Step 30: Press the straps. Topstitch and decorative stitch along the length of the straps. My decorative stitching and thread color matches the sepals, since I consider the strap to be sort of "stem"-like. Step 31: To make the 1/2" strapping, take the remaining 20" long, 2" wide strip of fabrics, and fold in half lengthwise and press. Step 32: Open the strip up and press the ends to the center. Step 33: Fold the strip back in half and press. The edges should be even. If not, adjust and press. Step 34: Topstitch on both sides and do some decorative stitching if desired. Step 35: Cut the 1/2" strap into 6 pieces, each 6 inches long. For four of the pieces, fold in 1/2 and zigzag stitch the edges together for 1/2". For the other two pieces, slide one of the claw clips on before you do the zigzag stitching. See step 37 and 38 to see what I mean. Notice there are two ways to fold the strap in half. I prefer the one on the right, but it doesn't matter which you choose. Just be consistent. Step 36: Cut a 6"x2" wide strip of fabric, fold in half lengthwise and stitch with a 1/2" seam allowance. Turn and press, and cut into 3 two inch strips. Press a seam allowance over at each end and turn right side out. Step 37: Slide a 1" square over the 1/2" strips with clips. Save the 3rd one for later. Step 38: Attach the clip to the strap end. Let the 1/2" strap and 1" strap overlap a little more that 1/2". Secure with a few lines of stitching. Step 39: Slide the square over the unfinished edges and topstitch in place, and decorative stitch if desired. Repeat for the other strap. Topstitching is shown here. Step 40: Attach the straps to the interior bag. Start with the easy piece - the piece without the zipper! Mark on the top of the facing where the straps will attach. Leave 1/2" of space from the top and 1" from the side edge. Step 41: Align the strap and stitch in place, following the pencil markings. When you align the strap, leave a little extra below the bottom line of stitching. When you align the strap, leave a little extra below the bottom line of stitching. Step 42: Attach one of the loops from step 35 to the other side of the interior section, following the same spacing guidelines. This is what it should look like now. It's important that the straps are attached to the same side of each interior compartment, not mirror images, otherwise when you do the across-the-body configuration, both straps will be on the same end of the purse! So if you put the strap on the left and loop on the right, do that for the other side as well. Step 43: To attach the straps to the other side, open the zipper up first. (If you omitted the zippered section, simply do the other section as described above). Mark the squares on the lining. They will be about 1" wide and 1/2" tall. Stitch as above. Step 44: Stitch across the straps, on the line of the previous topstitching. Do this for both sides. Okay, the interior is assembled, the straps and on, the flower is put together, now to make a purse! Step 45: Start with the non-zipper side. Center one flower over the interior section, and pin the flower onto the fabric layer only, not the lining layer! Be sure to orient the flower in the same way for both sides to the backs of the petals match up when it's finished. Step 46: Sew around the inside, and then along the "spokes" where you attached the small petals together. If you flip it over when you are done, you can see the "sunburst" pattern. Step 47:Repeat step 45 for the other interior section and flower.Again, this is what you would see if you flip it over. Onto the next and final page! Finishing Steps Most of the finishing steps involve handstitching, so remember... Step 48: Make your flower centers. There is a template in the pattern that shows the finished size of whatever you decided to do. I played around with various embroidery ideas before I settled on Canadian smocking. I worked the smocking in a square, twice as big as the diameter I needed. Then I gathered the ends into the center in the back and shaped the piece using a steamy iron held 1/2" above the surface in front and gently pressed in the back. I will put up instructions for the Canadian smocking soon, but until then The Padawan's Guide has some basic instruction. Step 49: Handstitch your flower front onto the flower. Repeat for the other side. Step 50: The small petals will be too floppy, so tack them by hand to the petals behind them. Only tack the back layer of fabric so the stitching isn't visible from the front. See the picture below. Repeat for all the small petals. So, here we are, two halves of a purse. Let's put 'em together! Step 51: Whip stitch the ends of the zipper (on both ends) . Trim so they are even with the seam allowance. Step 52: Trim so the zipper ends are even with the seam allowance. Step 53: Put the snap together and line up the edges of the interior. Step 54: Pin the edges of the interior together. Hand baste if desired. Step 55: This next step takes some sheer force of will. You will have to hold the petals out of the way sew this seam. Stitch all the way around with a 1/2" seam allowance. Step 56: Attaching the seam binding. Start by wrapping one end over the top of the interior pockets. Step 57: Pin the seam binding in place, treating the other end in the same manner. Use a zigzag stitch to attach. It doesn't matter if it looks ugly, the next few steps will hide it. Step 58: Handstitch the tops of the pocket to the backs of the large flowers. Step 59: Stitch two sides together at the ends of the interior sections. Be sure to pull the thread taught. To finish the stitching, run the needle through the petal, and scrunch the fabric up before you cut it so that the loose end is hidden in the petal. Step 60: Slipstitch the petals together around the edge of the interior bound edge. Knot the thread every 1/4 of the way around, so if there is an issue with one section you don't have to redo the whole thing. Step 61: Making the optional zipper pull. Get a small bead and a head pin. Step 62: Clip off the excess from the headpin and curl it with beading pliers or needlenose pliers to make an eye. Step 63: Attach to the zipper with a split ring. Step 64: To make the connector for wearing the bag across the body: You have two 1/2 inch wide loops left over. Attach them end to end with a zigzag stitch. (You're stitching will look like a cross, not like the T in the picture). Step 65: You also have a 1 inch square left over. Slide onto the connector and stitch in place, and decorative stitch if desired. Congrats! You're finished! Now all your friends, and many complete strangers, will be astonished at your sewing skill!!